Steering for 95 YJ w/ SOA

[mujeeper]

Ya, had the booty fab done when I was in college and had other things on my mind (or lack thereof). I would like to do a quick fix on it so I can enjoy the rest of the summer & then maybe next winter, do a complete overhaul on the steering components (when the money tree sprouts)

I have not looked into a different steering arm. Like I said, I'm slowly learning my steering components. I am a self taught, amateur mechanic. I only learn things when they break & I have to fix them myself.

What type of steering arm did you have in mind?

[mujeeper]

Is there a recommended WJ year to pick from or is it anything newer than 99? It looks like 93-98 WJs have the same bolt pattern. Will the knuckles, calipers from that still work?

i'm still debating on the OTT mod or WJ knuckle swap :think: The swap has 2 upgrades, but the OTT is an upgrade with better ground clearance as well as an upgraded steering. I have disc brakes all around so it stops pretty good anyway....ggrrrrr....WHAT DO I DO!?!? :frustrated:

[mujeeper]

Ok, time to bring this thread back to life.

I've been looking into the WJ conversion and have never messed with steering and still fairly new with brakes, I got some questions.....

1. What kind of material can be used for the 1/4" caliper spacers and why 4? I'm not sure if I understand where they go. Where can I buy these?

2. I plan on installing 1.25" - 1.5" wheel spacers to prevent the rubbing of tires on the leaf spring when I make tight turns. Should I install them now to avoid any wheel rubbing on the new calipers?

3. What year grand cherokee is best to fit 15 x 8's? I hear that the earlier model calipers fit better than the later (within the 99-04 models)

4. Has anyone had any luck finding the european knuckles? I read that using them you can get true high steer given their attachment points.

5. I read/heard that crown vic rotors have the same bolt pattern and fit the size needed for calipers. HAs anyone else heard this or know of a rotor that works for this new set up? I would prefer not to drill out rotors every time I replace them.

This is just a start of my annoying questions. I just recently started taking her apart so I am learning as I get into it. If anyone has pictures of what they did or can share any advice, I'm all ears. I'll give you my email if anyone has pictures they can share.

Much appreciated!

[rjh]

1. What kind of material can be used for the 1/4" caliper spacers and why 4? I'm not sure if I understand where they go. Where can I buy these?

This is the one I've got, and I think that most people use. You can probably source it a couple bucks cheaper from one of their distributors:

http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/me..._Code=FABParts

The spacer is welded to the knuckle and spaces the stock TJ unit bearing 1/4" out so that the unit bearing and u-joint are lined up correctly. Here's a picture of one:



While you're buying parts, you might look at these for the steering links; they will accept a stock WJ TRE:

http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/me..._Code=FABParts

2. I plan on installing 1.25" - 1.5" wheel spacers to prevent the rubbing of tires on the leaf spring when I make tight turns. Should I install them now to avoid any wheel rubbing on the new calipers?

I'm not sure it matters when you install them. Have you thought about wheels with less backspacing? Or a bigger wheel to clear the new calipers? Some 15" wheels fit and some don't. I know the Vanco kit says it fits "the majority of 15" rims"... you'll get the same benefit for about 1/2 the cost with the WJ knuckle conversion.

3. What year grand cherokee is best to fit 15 x 8's? I hear that the earlier model calipers fit better than the later (within the 99-04 models)

The knuckles on my 05 LJ are from an 04 WJ. I'm running 15" wheels, but they've self clearanced the knuckles. They just barely fit. You might want to jump up in rim size if you're worried. Be aware that 99-02 WJ's came with calipers made by Teves. They're black with an open-sided bracket, and due to poor centering caused the rotors to warp. At the end of 02 Jeep switched to a fully-closed style caliper made by Akebono. Everything made after 5/11/02 has the new calipers; international models after 8/16/02 also have them. You can reference TSB 05-003-02B for more information.

Old part numbers (Teves):
P/N 5011973AA Left front caliper MSRP: $141.00
P/N 5011972AA Right front caliper MSRP: $141.00
P/N 5018592AA Pad kit, front MSRP: $177.00
P/N 52098672 Rotor, front MSRP: $ 65.10 (each)

New part numbers (Akebono):
P/N 5093181AA Left front caliper (all-new) MSRP: $140.00
P/N 5093180AA Right front caliper (all-new) MSRP: $140.00
P/N 5093183AA Pad kit, front (revised) MSRP: $ 177.00
P/N 52098672 Rotor, front (unchanged) MSRP: $ 65.10 (each)

Replacement kit parts (Akebono, fits 99-04 WJ's):
P/N 05093174AA Front caliper & pad kit package - (Includes left P/N 5093181AA and right P/N 5093180AA Akebono "fully closed" style calipers, revised P/N 5093183AA brake pads, P/N 5012437AA attachment bolts, and P/N 6035832 banjo sealing washers). MSRP $309.00

For what it's worth mine are Teves and I haven't had any problems with the rotors warping, but I don't do much street driving. If you want to see them, you're welcome to come by and look.

4. Has anyone had any luck finding the european knuckles? I read that using them you can get true high steer given their attachment points.

The knuckles are the same as far as I know; it's just the calipers that are different. The stock WJ knuckles can be converted to high steer; on a TJ you have to get a TRE from a RH drive jeep to clear the spring perch from the drag link to the passenger knuckle, but otherwise everything is the same, you just flip 'em to the top of the knuckle instead of coming up from underneath... if you want to do that, you'll need to drill out the taper in the knuckle and weld in a tapered insert. You can get those here:

http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

5. I read/heard that crown vic rotors have the same bolt pattern and fit the size needed for calipers. HAs anyone else heard this or know of a rotor that works for this new set up? I would prefer not to drill out rotors every time I replace them.

I hadn't read/heard that. Mine are re-drilled from 5x5.5 to 5x4.5.

If anyone has pictures of what they did or can share any advice, I'm all ears.

There's a write-up here:

http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showt...kle-conversion

You might also check Corey's build thread here, starting around page 14:

http://www.kcjeepclub.org/old/forum/...=asc&start=260

You're welcome to check my setup out any time. I'm in Lenexa on the west side of town.

[spunebil]

is it just me eyes, or does that knuckle have a big ole crack on the left side (in picture) ? :roll:

[rjh]

don't know & don't care. it's not my knuckle. :D

i just used it to illustrate where to weld the spacer....

[mujeeper]

This is the one I've got, and I think that most people use. You can probably source it a couple bucks cheaper from one of their distributors:

http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/me..._Code=FABParts

The spacer is welded to the knuckle and spaces the stock TJ unit bearing 1/4" out so that the unit bearing and u-joint are lined up correctly. Here's a picture of one:

The link I saw stated,

"Make four 1 ¼” x ¼” spacers with your hole saw. Drill a ½” hole in the center. These will space the calipers out to meet the newly spaced out hubs."

From this link http://www.jcroffroad.com/WJ/

I'm kinda confused on where these go. I'm ordering my knuckles today & getting the calipers locally in case I run into fitment issues. On a good note, I came across this website...

http://shoplive.rompalicious.com/

Found a knuckle for 89.95 & one for 94.95. Cheaper than everywhere else of about 120. THey seem to have pretty good prices here and free shipping over 100. I haven't made an order yet, so we'll see....

As far as the pitman arm, do I need a stock one or is a drop pitman arm ok. I already have the dropped pitman arm & prefer not to replace. from the looks of it, it seems that the drop will work since the drag link needs to be as parallel to the ground as possible (right?....I'm still learning this). I'll have a better idea later, but if I NEED a stock one, I can make the order soon.

[rjh]

I think that means take a 1.25" hole saw and cut out some holes from a piece of 0.25" stock. Those little round discs then get a 0.5" hole in the middle for the caliper bolts to pass through.

I don't have any on mine, and everything fits & works just fine.

[mujeeper]

Ya. that's what it sounds like to me too, but if I bolt WJ calipers to WJ knuckles, why would I need to modify them? That part doesn't make sense to me, but I'll when I start putting her back together. I got the knuckles ordered so I'll see how everything fits. I may swing by & take a look sometime if I have problems, but need to get my camera working again before I do.

[rjh]

The only thing I can guess is that because you're welding a 0.25" spacer to the knuckle to center the unit bearing correctly over the steering joints, they thought they needed the same 0.25" spacer for the caliper to keep it where it's supposed to be. Mine are just bolted to the knuckle though.

[mujeeper]

uuggghhh....Still looking for replacement parts. Apparently the knuckle manufacturer has these on back order so back to the salvage yards! Anywho....I've got a drop pitman arm (I think about 4" drop). Do I need to go back to stock or can I keep it? Also, is there a near place to buy "stock"? I've never bought steel for custom fab work. I've heard of royal metal in south olathe west of 56 & I-35.I I plan on fitting everything on first before I fab these to see if they're even necessary.

rjh - I'd still like to stop by to check out what you did if the offer is still on the table, but I got to get my camera functioning first. What is the best time/day to swing by?

[rjh]

I'll be home all day Friday.

Metal by the foot sells various steel stock for your fab needs, but they're off 40 highway & truman road in Independence. I'm running a stock pitman arm; don't need the drop once you get everything up high.

Cory has some good pictures in his build thread...it's 34 pages, but I think the WJ steering is back toward the end...

[mujeeper]

PM sent...

[mujeeper]

It looks like I NEED to go back to a stock pitman arm now that I got the knuckles fitted in (currently have a 4" drop). Don't think with the drop I have room to run from the knuckle to pitman arm without hitting the leaves. I was confused on how the drag link ends connect to the pass side knuckle. Stock, they connect from underneath which may cause the DL to hit the leaves. That would require flipping the ends with the inserts for that, thus I would need 3 tie rod flip inserts for this. 2 for the tie rod & one for th drag link.

Also, I've noticed on all the articles/threads I've read on this, that none of them show using a steering stabilizer. I did read one forum that they aren't needed when the steering is set up correctly.

Does all this sound right or am I gone crazy? I want to get everything dry fitted before I put it all back together, unfortunately, I've been ordering the parts piece by piece. I'M GETTING THERE!

[spunebil]

I am running a YJ (89) and I dont even have a drag link or swaybar on the jeep ! I do have a steering stabilizer but it looks to be old and probably worn out.

this is me daily driver and while I have about 4' lift, it is all sua. but I am thinking when i go to SOA (with some XJ springs I have) I still will be ok without draglinks and swaybars !

and this daily driver is actually driven EVERY DAY unlike alot of daily drivers ya see on here ! ;-)