not to hijack...but john...can you give me the part numbers?!
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Originally posted by tuffnutz70 View Postnot to hijack...but john...can you give me the part numbers?!
Here is the harness
http://www.eautoworks.com/product-eA...com-189849.htm
and here are the headlight housings for an XJ (these come with h4 bulbs too)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-01...Q5fAccessories
John1997 Cherokee, 3", 32" MT's, and too many lights.. :)
Always Smilin'
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Tuff, stop hijacking my thread, its mine! lol.
I was looking at my lights today on the way home and there bad. There maybe 1/2 as bright as the stock pics you took when I shine them on the garage lol. I wish it was legal to run spot lights on the street. :-)
Thanks for everyones input on this topic, its been alot of help. Im sure I'll end up doing the swap once tax season and christmas is over with. :-)
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Originally posted by GOAT View PostTuff, stop hijacking my thread, its mine! lol.
I was looking at my lights today on the way home and there bad. There maybe 1/2 as bright as the stock pics you took when I shine them on the garage lol. I wish it was legal to run spot lights on the street. :-)
Thanks for everyones input on this topic, its been alot of help. Im sure I'll end up doing the swap once tax season and christmas is over with. :-)
John1997 Cherokee, 3", 32" MT's, and too many lights.. :)
Always Smilin'
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huh...what are the odds my drivers side bright light went out today. Looks like I might get an upgrade sooner than I thought. :-)
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I do the wiring and H4 swap then the new lights will un-plug and I can plug my old sealed beam ones back in correct? If so I might swap the old ones back in when I off-road, so that it doesnt **** up the h4 bulbs (from getting bounced and beaten to death).Last edited by GOAT; 12-08-2010, 11:23 PM.
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Yes, you can plug your old lights back in.....but quite honestly, that is more work than it would be worth. I have had mine in for over a year, including off road (hush it Tommy!! :) ) and have had no issues. If a bulb burns out, they are cheap to replace.
John1997 Cherokee, 3", 32" MT's, and too many lights.. :)
Always Smilin'
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It will take an hour tops...it really is easy. The longest part is routing the new harness.
I mounted the 2 relays on the fender next to the battery...
I removed the grill and ran the wire along the bottom of the grill shell so it is out of the way...
The wiring kit hooks to your battery and stock light plugs (so you don't have to wire any on/off switches). Let me know of you have any more questions.
:)
John1997 Cherokee, 3", 32" MT's, and too many lights.. :)
Always Smilin'
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Well I think Im going to go with the AutoPal's as well. There cheap and everyone that has them seems to like them for the most part. Just curious, I know you went with the Euro style (as will I), but what bulbs did you go with? the white 60/55, or a higher wattage bulb? I'm thinking about going with the 60/55 watts if thats whats in your pictures.Last edited by GOAT; 12-13-2010, 11:44 PM.
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On order, they should be here tuesday. I will update with pics once I get them put in (which might take my lazy *** a min.), to show the difference on TJ lights for anyone who might run across this thread in the future.
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Well I took pics but they came out ****ty. But I do like the upgrade. I can now tell if I have my headlights on at night :-)Last edited by GOAT; 01-07-2011, 09:25 AM.
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The kinked cutoff pattern that the e-code housing puts off is pretty wicked, in the best way. Super handy for setting your left-right adjustment, because you know -exactly- how far apart the headlights are, and you can measure out the distance between the kinks at 30', 50', or whatever and know that the beams are parallel. If you're lucky enough to have a flat parking lot and a white wall, you can also measure the height at the kinks for up-down adjustment. Nice work!
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