What type of oil do YOU use on your Jeep.

[treedawg]

At the Gibsons Store at 7 and 50 you can buy regular pump gas with no corn added.But it is about 50 cents more a gallon.It is worth it to a lot of vintage auto owners to by the non-grain gasoline I have been told due to the moisture in ethanol gas.

[spunebil]

I been fueling at hivee (40&noland) and like qt, they sell alot of gas so its a fairly good chance that the fuel is Fresh! ;)

[Chipper]

I use Mobil 1 for the Jeeps and Royal Purple 20W50 for the '76 Eldorado. Like Kenny said, I stay away from the ethanol blends in the Eldorado due to moisture content and I have heard that it can cause the rubber components in the fuel system to deteriorate in older cars.

[spunebil]

I use Mobil 1 for the Jeeps and Royal Purple 20W50 for the '76 Eldorado. Like Kenny said, I stay away from the ethanol blends in the Eldorado due to moisture content and I have heard that it can cause the rubber components in the fuel system to deteriorate in older cars.

Have ya ever heard of or added Heet to your gas tank in winter? Its main ingredient is Alcohol to absorb any water that is in your tank and allow it to pass thru combustion chamber and become steam, ;)

[Chipper]

Have ya ever heard of or added Heet to your gas tank in winter? Its main ingredient is Alcohol to absorb any water that is in your tank and allow it to pass thru combustion chamber and become steam, ;)

I have used Heet and Sea Foam for the same purpose without any problems. I finally decided a few years ago to stop putting any additives in a car that is pretty much not driven at all during the Winter. I just make certain the tank is full.

[87warrior]

I run whatever is on sale and meets the ACEA A1/A5 or A3 specification. Usually run the Mobile 1 filter.

[Jdlefebure]

...so you're tellin' me that the $1.29/ qt dollar store oil that I used to put in my uber-thirsty S-10 4-banger is (for all general purposes) identical to the $6 - $7/ qt Castrol GTX that my Jeeps gargle with?!! Please tell me I'm not that big of an idiot/ victim of commercialism! (don't sugar-coat this). Oh, yeah - and I guarantee my vehicles run better/ idle smoother/ get better milage when I DON'T use gas from QT! Is this all in my head?

BTW, great thread, jdlefebure.

Haven't seen any posts like this so I figured some people might be curious as to what everyone uses

[rjh]

There was a post probably 18 months ago on the Rubicon Owners Forum about fluids... Doctor D posted up some really good tech on the different certifications, what to look for, etc.

I use the cheap stuff from wallyworld. Whatever is cheapest that meets the required certifications. For example, they sell the "Suptratech" synthetic gear oil for something like $4-5 a quart -- about half all the "name" brands, and it meets the same certifications or more.

I'm having trouble with the ROF search function at the moment, or I'd post a link to the (multi-page) thread over there.... it was really informative though.

[87warrior]

There was a post probably 18 months ago on the Rubicon Owners Forum about fluids... Doctor D posted up some really good tech on the different certifications, what to look for, etc.

I use the cheap stuff from wallyworld. Whatever is cheapest that meets the required certifications. For example, they sell the "Suptratech" synthetic gear oil for something like $4-5 a quart -- about half all the "name" brands, and it meets the same certifications or more.

I'm having trouble with the ROF search function at the moment, or I'd post a link to the (multi-page) thread over there.... it was really informative though.

http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/ph...hilit=acea+oil

The good doctor is why I choose ACEA oils.

[rjh]

Thanks, Brett! That's the one I was looking for! ;-)

[rjh]

I found another link while doing some other research today, that may be useful here. This is from the Corvette Action Center if you want to go read the original, but I reprinted it here as it seems relevant.

Why ZDDP Gets so Much Attention

The most common EP additive in automotive engine oils is zinc dialkyldithio-phosphate (ZDDP), a family of coordination compounds of zinc and dithiophosphoric acid which, in longer chain, molecular derivatives, easily dissolve in engine oils. Known more commonly as "zinc dithiophosphate" (ZDP), "zinc phosphate" or, quite incorrectly, just "zinc", this compound was initially added to oil in the 1940s as an anti-corrosive/antioxidant. Later it was discovered to be an excellent extreme pressure lubricant.

When subjected to heat present at the lobe/lifter interface, ZDDP decomposes into alcohol, zinc, sulfur and phosphorous. The alcohol
evaporates and the zinc mostly washes away, leaving sulfur and phosphorous to combine with iron molecules on the surface of the cam lobe to make iron sulfide and iron phosphate, the two compounds which perform EP lubrication.

"The 'dithio' in 'zinc dithiophosphate' means for every phosphorous there are two sulfur molecules," Red Line Synthetic Oil Corporation's Vice President and top petro-chemical engineer, Roy Howell, told the Corvette Action Center.

Sulfur is probably more important than zinc and phosphorous. The cam and lifter wear surfaces are rich in iron and sulfur with a lesser amount of phosphorous. The ZDP decomposes into a soft, thin film of iron sulfide and iron phosphate which prevents iron adhesion, or welding. The zinc doesn't do much. If you look at photomicrographs of cams and lifters, there's hardly any zinc coating, but there's a lot of iron sulfide coating and some iron phosphate coating.

With this process, you trade adhesive wear for chemical wear. If you didn't have these soft films, which prevent iron from touching iron if you didn't have something in the middle, then you'd get adhesive wear-welding and that iron-to-iron weld would pull 'chunks' out of the lobe and follower.

What makes zinc dialkyldithiophosphate unique is its precise thermal decomposition temperature which can be manipulated by changing the composition of the organic alkyl group attached to the phosphorous.

If it decomposes at too low a temperature, chemical wear would occur where it is not needed but, if it occurred at a higher temperature, then some adhesion or welding, would already be taking place.

There are a lot of different sulfur compounds Howell continued, but this one has 'precision-controlled' decomposition. In many of the
others, the sulfur and the phosphorous are much more loosely bonded. There's a bigger 'range'. It might partially decompose at a lower temperature and finish at a higher temperature or, maybe, decompose only at a higher temperature, however, with ZDP-boom!-, like at 400°F, it starts to thermally decompose then react with the surface of the lobe and lifter to form those almost monomolecular soft films. As the lobe rubs against the follower, that film will get rubbed off and in the next revolution, the same thing happens again."

ZDP is slowly depleted by decomposition and evaporation, so eventually EP lubrication becomes inadequate. This is one reason oils need to be changed periodically.

While some petrochemical engineers consider sulfur of primary importance and some consumers misunderstand zinc content as benchmarking EP additives in oil; in reality, it is the phosphorous component about which the oil industry is most concerned.

[treedawg]

say "zinc dialkyldithiophosphate" ten times quickly.

[Guest]

What ever is the cheapest and meets the requirements.Same with oil filter
Summer Months here in KS Heavy weight & Lucas with a oil change
Winter I use 5-20 or 5-30 & no Lucas

[mujeeper]

First off. All oil is NOT the same. The big oil companies tell us that and they wouldn't lie to us.........yes, that was sarcasm :-P

I use Valvoline 10w-30 with lucas additive & a wix filter. Not a daily driver, so I'm not oppose to avoiding the cheapo stuff when I change the oil once a year or so.

[Tazer15]

I agree with rjh and Brett I read Docs postings and then went off on my own doing lots of research.I'm running Mobil 1 high mileage or extended performance I've also used Valvoline full syn I've always been a Valvoline fan.The more I read looks like the best options for our motors are mobile 1 turbo diesel or Valvoline vr1 race.When we wheel these jeeps they get hot I don't need to get into what heat does to fluids why not spend a few extra bucks and get the good stuff come on!It lasts longer between changes if you want I change mine sooner.I never understood why someone would spend so many hrs and dollars on their hobby/passion and worry about spending little extra on good fluids even if you think their not worth it isnt it worth (just incase)piece of mind??????