Checking / packing / replacing bearings & races on a tra

I'm getting ready to pull my Jeep 2,000+ miles on the trailer, and I want to make sure I've got good bearings & tires. I'm planning to replace the tires because they're pretty worn and I have no idea how old they are or how long they've been out sitting in the sun; they were on the trailer when I bought it.

How hard is it to take the bearings & races out and inspect them and/or replace them? How do I tell when they're worn and need replacing vs. just repacking?

Also, is there anyone around Lenexa with a welder? I need to get a couple D-rings welded on the back end of the trailer for the tie downs.

[jagular7]

MTL, the bearings will be tapered and the race is pressed into the hub. You will need to clean and inspect the bearings as well as the races. You shouldn't really see and feel an edge in the race. Same for the bearings. Before you loosen the nut to pull the bearings, push/pull on the hub to see if there is play. That will tell you if they could be worn, assuming the last time the nut was tightened it was tighten and turned 1/4 to properly set the bearing in the race. Get yourself some brake cleaner to help clean the grease off. Get some silicon grease to pack back in. You can pack the bearings with grease through the palm of your hand (I think we discussed this before) or get a bearing greaser press. Since you may be getting new bearing look at getting a spare or 2 as well. To pull the race out is not that difficult with the proper tool. Being the hub, they would be removed from inside the hub, you'll need a hammer and a punch to get the races out.
You may need to get some hub caps to protect the bearings (the cap you remove to get to the pin and nut) and a couple more cotter pins as well.

[bwiencek]

That will tell you if they could be worn, assuming the last time the nut was tightened it was tighten and turned 1/4 to properly set the bearing in the race.

Just to be sure - I think you meant turned BACK 1/4 turn!

Look for scoring, discoloration, grooves, and pitting in the bearing and race - also check to see if it rolls smooth (before dis-assembly and when they're out) Look for signs of metal in the grease. Replace them if anything doesn't check out.

Also - check for signs of grease on the back of the hub - if there is the seal may need replacement.

For non-boat trailers I just use good 'ol molly wheel bearing grease - everything you'll find should be rated for "Disc brakes" (read higher temps than the really old stuff that was for drum brakes) and the molly is an extreme pressure lubricant. No need to get synthetic or silicone lubricants as there shouldn't be any water contamination worries like a boat trailer.

[rjh]

I think this video gives me what I need.

[Guest]

I'm sure you will do this, but why you are in there I would also inspect the brake pads for cracks. Nothing like not having trailer breaks going down some of those passes.

[rjh]

yep, plan to check & service the brakes and magnet while I'm in there. Also getting new tires just to be safe.

[4x4 LAND]

Do yourself a favor and stick to timkin bearings. There is a difference. When you hold a timkin in one hand and an offbrand in the other you'll feel the difference. On my big trailer after one trip to moab and back I usually have to replace at least 3 or 4 of the 6 brake shoes each time. Going discs on my new trailer axles.

[got flx]

WOW that is some serious brake usage Mike, have you checked into an exhaust brake?
Where do you get disc brake trailer axles, I haven't heard of those :roll:
sorry for a slight hijack Rich