D30 disconnect eliminator driving issues

[mujeeper]

I recently upgraded to the Ten factory axle shafts from quadratec with disconnect eliminator. This kit replaces the 2 piece shaft system on the passenger side on most YJ's. This also had a cover plate to replace the disconnect fork assembly. I removed the cover, fork, wires, & vacuum lines & installed the plate. The vacuum lines were cut & sealed with sealant (in case I need them later, who knows?).

It drove great in the snow in 4wd, but I later started driving in 2wd & it still seemed to drive similar to the 4wd mode. There was quite a bit more drag than normal and had that 4wd feel in tight turns. It also seemed to pull to the right when driving & especially when braking. I know it's in 2wd when I shift it since it's now entirely controlled by the 4wd shifter (not vacuum) & I can feel that it's in the right gear. I have a Detroit truetrac up front & have heard that this can cause issues with this set up, but nothing serious. Overall, the drag & steering changes from the set up make me a bit hesitant to take this on the highway.

My question is, did I do this right or is there a chance I did something wrong? It seemed pretty straightforward of an install. Was I not suppose to seal the vacuum lines?

[jagular7]

Sounds like you did it right on the vacuum disconnect, but, did you put in an axle seal in the housing for the passenger inner shaft? There isn't one with the disconnect stock setup. The seal is at the disconnect.
For removing the vacuum all together, I'd pot the feed line that is at the firewall just off the battery tray. Pull the dash pot and replace it with a closed version. The 4wd light won't come on though. Would that be an issue?
I'd also remove the vacuum lines all together. They are plastic and even when tucking them out of the way for possible future use, they will be old and possibly brittle.

As for drag in the front axle, go for a ride in a TJ. Should have the same effect. I have a locker in mine.

[mujeeper]

Thanks for the input. I didn't install the axle seal since I just replaced them a year ago because of leaking. Good point that I can install the seal on the other side of the disconnect (didn't think of that). When I replaced the seals last I pulled the carrier out & was wanting to avoid that route again (thus why I left the seals alone). I did measure the shafts & the new one seemed to be a little smaller in some spots, but varied. Another reason I left the vacuum lines in was to seal them up so no junk gets sucked into the t case.

The light doesn't come on now anyway since all the lines & sensors are disconnected, but no, it doesn't matter. I can feel the t case shift in gear so I know it's engaged.

I'll have to swap with a TJ for a test drive someday, I suppose.

[jagular7]

The vacuum lines don't go into the tcase. There is a switch with a ball on the end on the topside of the case, just inside the front ds. The ball of the switch rides on the rotating plate that controls 4wd and hi/lo. You shouldn't be removing that switch, just be pulling the vacuum lines to it and from it.

The passenger side axle seal has to go inside the diff housing. You have to pull the carrier out and tap it in. The seal at the disconnect should be removed. The inner shaft ruins it.

If you follow the instructions for replacing the vacuum disconnect with a cable actuator, that's basically what you have to do.

[Guest]

I figured maybe the kit came with a polished/ machined area to fit the stock YJ seal?

When I made my housing (YJ center, CJ width and offset, sleeved long side) I put the seal in the differential. I should have a thread from a few years ago with the part number for the correct seal or I can look in my spare parts bag? It doesn't require machining and it's a snug fit.

With that said there is also an aftermarket seal that is caulked into place, but I don't have any experience with that type, although it's used in a lot of aftermarket housings like Spidertrax, Diamond, Ballistic and a Ruff Stuff.

Wally

[mujeeper]

Jeep... Just empty every pocket

So, I've driven my jeep a bit more lately & the way it handles scares me enough not to take it over 45 ish. I had my suspicion, so I called quadratec & they confirmed my concerns. Basically, by going to a 2 piece system from the stock 3 piece, it now has my locker confused & acting up since it's a Detroit Truetrac like a LSD. That being said, I think I accidentally made my jeep an off road only vehicle (whoops). My best bet is to replace my truetrac with a selectable locker (OX, ARB, Eaton).

Anyone have any recommendations? I'm leaning towards Eaton since it may be easier to have a switch rather than another lever that may be bumped. A switch can have a cover on it. I know there's an air & electric option available for the OX, but that's more $$$. Even the cable & shifter for the OX isn't included with the locker. I'm pretty much staying away from ARB primarily because of cost (locker & air compressor) & risk of air leaks. I've seen the Eaton's for as low as $800 (summit racing).

The OX locker instructions say to have a pro install as you need to replace the install kit. Is that right? I've taken out my carrier with R&P before without a problem. Isn't installing a locker the same thing only reinstalling a different locker? I can handle most mechanical work, but stay away from welding & rebuilding anything with lots of high speed moving parts such as transmission, engine, & diffs.

Anyone got a selectable locker for sale? It's for a D30 27 spline.
Anyone want to buy a used Detroit Truetrac?

[Guest]

There are a couple of other options that you might not have considered?

1. Look for a 2006 or older Rubicon axle that already has the locker installed in a D44. Cut the brackets off of it and weld leaf spring perches on. Sell your axle. Benefits would be a D44 with larger axle shafts, plus the locker comes installed. Cost will be a downside, labor will be too. BUT you could get it all set up in your garage and then you will be ready to install in on a Saturday morning.

2. Selectable hubs, I have seen them as cheap as $775 and as expensive as $1300sh. Benefits of keeping your current locker, not having to mess with the 3rd member would be a fairly straight forward install on a Saturday morning.

3. XJ high pinion D30 or a second YJ housing. Fairly affordable housings. You can rebuild it in your garage as time and money allows.

As far as lockers all of them have pluses and minuses.

"If" it were me, I would reconsider the ARB. It is the strongest of the lot via destructive tests. IF the tubes inside the differential and O rings are installed correctly you will be trouble free for years, if not then your odds are that around a year out you will have issues. I know a couple people that like theirs, no complaints, also like the fact that they have an air compressor too. Doesn't have to be an ARB air compressor, they all take a pressure solenoid the same, or you can wire one in.

I have used a Eaton E-Locker in another application, it was trouble free for 125,000 miles and dozens of wheeling trips. So, FWIW, they work well.

Wally

[mujeeper]

In reply to your comments...

1. That's more & more money plus I don't/can't weld so even more money there. Something I'll consider in the future if I want to upgrade the axle though. For now, it's not a hardcore rig. It's got 35's, lifted, locked (sorta), etc. but I still drive it around town. Basically, I think for most of my uses, a D30 is enough for me.....for now
2. Rokn had the same comment & seems like a good fix, but I can get an Eaton selectable for about 800 so I'm back to cost. Plus I hear the locking hubs are limited on tire sizes, so 35's might be a bit much for some.
3. More work than I care to invest at the moment.

Thanks for the input & I really do appreciate the advice, but I'm thinking to add an option 4. That would be to see what I can work out with quadratec to see if I can exchange it in for the kit that still utilizes the 3 piece shaft (with disconnect option). That will put me back to a stock application as far as driveability on the streets & still have the stronger shafts. I still may have the shifting/disconnect issue, but there are fixes to that as well plus it works just fine at the moment. Maybe I just upgrade with a homemade cable actuated 4wd. If I can't work something out with quadratec, then I'll likely toss my stock 2 piece shafts back in (the drivers side is the one that broke, so I still have the passenger 2 piece shafts on a shelf) & either buy a selectable locker later down the road or sell my passenger 1 piece shaft.

Sure glad I didn't completely remove the disconnect hoses & sensors!

[spunebil]

A truetrac is not a locker, its a limited slip diff. ! ...... if you drive it like you have a front locker, its ok ! ...... if you drive it like a soccer mom........ then your in for a freeking treet , NOT! ;)
I drive with a TRUE LOCKER in front ! ....... yes..... its tricky, ..... untill you realize ya have a locked front axle , and Drive like you Know you have a Locker ! ;)
Its easy to drive with locked front axle, once ya learn how ! :)