CJ7 front hub bolts keep coming loose

[Guest]

I am trying to figure out what to do next?

I have had an ongoing problem with hub bolts loosening. I have 6 bolt external Warn hubs, 35" tires and a Detroit in the front.

I bought new hubs, and 1 1/4" grade 8 bolts. Torqued to spec with lock washers. I have had to retorque them twice.

I violated my junk a little on Saturday out at Kansas Rocks on Zuke's Sqeeze, the bolts are loose again. I retorqued them, but I know that the next time I wheel, they will be loose again.

Purchasing brand new hubs, longer bolts were the suggestions made by experts with CJ7s (at least more of an expert than me). I was assured this would cure my problem.

If I continue to retorque the bolts every trip, I am going to need new hubs......... again, as the bolt holes will be wallowed out like my old ones.

I have Googled and Pirated 4x4 searched this issue, I have read quite a bit of banter about what to do, BUT I am looking for a more terminal solution.

Supposedly, the original hubs had a lock tab on the nut. I am considering "Stage 8"s hub bolt lock outs.

http://www.stage8.com/manuallock.html

Or should I go with studs?

I "could" try blue loctite, but I bet, even with proper prep, they will loosen! Any other viable solutions?

Replacing hubs every year isn't the answer IMO.

Wally

[jagular7]

Get a Wrangler.

[Guest]

I can think of cheaper solutions. LOL Like a set of Spidertrax axles.

Wally

[Guest]

Yep that is a common problem on the CJ external hubs. There just isn't enough meat to take the abuse. Swapping to internal hubs would solve that problem. :) There are a number of ways to do that.... Until then I would swap to high strength studs with loctite. You might check a couple of varieties of locktite before you just grab some red and squirt on there. They may have something specific to address the issue you have. I'd be curoius to see if the stage 8 stuff would actually cure the problem. I know that I installed some "bridge locks" on my 9" ring gear bolts. It wouldn't be hard to design some of those to fit the lock out.

[Guest]

A "Bridge Lock" is exactly what I was thinking about, except for one bolt. I have come up dry looking for them, however I have heavy guage sheetmetal and some time. Stage 8 is pretty proud of their products. In my minds eye, I am thinking about loctite and a "bridge lock" type set up? My guess, based on your thoughts, the hubs are gonna start exploding once I cure the bolt loosening problem? LOL unless I start getting a little more gentle or stick to less challanging obstacles.

If I am understanding correctly, in order to convert to an internal hub, I will have to switch to a: 70s Chevy or Ford outer knuckle, hub, use a 19 spline D44 outer stub shaft for a 760x joint. I Googled conversion kits, but didn't see any for early nonunit bearing type dana 30s.

Wally

[Guest]

yeah I don't think it would be hard to make a bridge lock out of some sheet metal. You could leave one tab where it would hit the hub and fold one up to the bolt head. I believe the real root of the problem is the hub it'self flexing and that allows the bolts to come loose. I don't know if the lock out would be any better or worse than an internal. I think I would try studs and a bridge lock. It'd be the cheapest route to start.

I'd have to do some research but I believe you need scout dana 44 spindles and stub shafts or go the easier route (as long as you don't have high steer) and swap all ford stuff on it.. :)

[Guest]

Cool, thanks for the leads and advice!

Wally

[Guest]

I ordered the studs, should be able to start this project this week.

Wally

[t-rav_12]

Just caught this thread, Wally. Have ya considered cross-drilled bolts and safety wire?

[Skyhiranger]

I would just use red loctite. Clean the bolt holes and the bolts with brake cleaner and dry them with compressed air, before putting the loctite on and torquing them to spec.

[Guest]

I think I am going to start looking for the Ford-F-150 outers too, something else to dink around with as well.

Wally