YJ Soft Top Door Question

[Rescue Diver]

My pile O' Parts came with a set of soft upper doors but no lowers. I am not sure what these uppers came from, but they have the square rear upper corner instead of rounded so they're not for a hard top. That much I know. I've looked at soft uppers online for both steel and soft lower doors and they both look like they mount to the uppers the same way with three rods. Bestop is shipping me a pair of new lowers at a great price since they can sell replacement parts ala cart without going through a dealer as long as it's not a whole retail item. My question is, if these uppers were originally for hard lowers, will they still mount to soft lowers? If not, I'm pretty good at fabricating things so maybe I can make them work?

The new lowers should be delivered late this week but I'm curious to know whether they'll work together. The suspense is killing me. Lol

[spunebil]

you have soft uppers for the factory style soft top (square corner) bestop also sells the super top which has rounded cornes, but I know the soft lowers for CJ/YJ supertop will not be able to use the original style upper as the pins are in different locations ! I know cause i looked at some a couple of weeks ago ! :(

[Rescue Diver]

you have soft uppers for the factory style soft top (square corner) bestop also sells the super top which has rounded cornes, but I know the soft lowers for CJ/YJ supertop will not be able to use the original style upper as the pins are in different locations ! I know cause i looked at some a couple of weeks ago ! :(

Then I'll try and modify them to work. :D

[spunebil]

I have been thinking the same thing and for them to work in me application, I would need to convert the rounded corners to square and then modify the actual soft cover (for me original top) to fit the supertop frame work at bottom. The pins are located in different spots so the new covers will need to be cut and adapted to new frame ! I am thinking some good epoxy should work with the new cuts in covers to keep them from flapping and or blowing away in a good wind !
also the supertop uses velcrow while the original style used the channel to connect top to bottom ! :P

just another obstacle to overcome ! :twisted:

[Rescue Diver]

I have been thinking the same thing and for them to work in me application, I would need to convert the rounded corners to square and then modify the actual soft cover (for me original top) to fit the supertop frame work at bottom. The pins are located in different spots so the new covers will need to be cut and adapted to new frame ! I am thinking some good epoxy should work with the new cuts in covers to keep them from flapping and or blowing away in a good wind !
also the supertop uses velcrow while the original style used the channel to connect top to bottom ! :P

just another obstacle to overcome ! :twisted:

I'm actually using a supertop, but the framework I'm not sure about. It has both hoops going all the way from the rails on the bed like factory hardware, but it also has the flip top front part that I removed. I bought adjustable aftermarket speader bars and it works great with the supertop. The square corners shouldn't be a problem, and I don't expect any problem with securing the door tops to bottoms. I'll install snaps or something. The pic in the bestop two piece soft door instructions looks like the rods are in the exact same positions as the uppers I have? Wish I had the measurments. Guess I'll find out in a few days when they arrive.

[tuffnutz70]

problem you might have is the soft uppers that come with top have a hard plastic bottom lip that tucks under a metal lip on hard doors. the sft lowers have velcro....so it might fit prong wise but not be air tight or weather proof because of a gap where the two meet.

the square toped windows are for the factory framed soft top. if they are rounded then fits hard top and after market frames. either way....the three prongs should match the lowers. 99% of the tops and doors are interchangable between the cj-7 and the yj.

[Rescue Diver]

problem you might have is the soft uppers that come with top have a hard plastic bottom lip that tucks under a metal lip on hard doors. the sft lowers have velcro....so it might fit prong wise but not be air tight or weather proof because of a gap where the two meet.

the square toped windows are for the factory framed soft top. if they are rounded then fits hard top and after market frames. either way....the three prongs should match the lowers. 99% of the tops and doors are interchangable between the cj-7 and the yj.

The frame I have resembles the factory frame that the Bestop site shows. Only my frame originally had the flip top in the front. I unbolted that part so I could just use the regular supertop with the channel screwed to the top of the windshield frame. The top all fits tight and perfect together with the frame I have. I could always have an upholstery shop sew some velcro at the bottom of the uppers? It would be a lot cheaper than paying $400 for a new set of 2 piece doors. Bestop only charged me $150 for the new lower doors minus the paddle handles. I hope you're right about the prongs matching up. If not, I do own a welder. :)

[tuffnutz70]

is the top a best top? I meant the door uppers

[Rescue Diver]

is the top a best top?

The Canvas top itself is a Bestop Supertop. But like I said before, the frame is not. It has two complete bows that go from the frame rails like a factory soft top, but it also had the flip top front of the frame that I'm not using. It all went together really well. Even 4 out of the 5 snaps that attach to the bows in the underside of the top of the canvass match up.

[tuffnutz70]

i believe it will work (prong wise) you can alway yell at me if it don't! lol

[Rescue Diver]

is the top a best top? I meant the door uppers

The door uppers are apparently for a factory softop with steel half doors if what I've been told is correct. I'm going to try to make them work with the bestop lowers.

I've spent an arseload of $$$ building this thing over the past few months. If I can delay buying a whole new top for a year or so, it'll be worth all the trouble. I'll only be about $250 into everything for this top. That's a lot better for now than $900 or so.

[Rescue Diver]

i believe it will work (prong wise) you can alway yell at me if it don't! lol

Since I already ordered the new lower doors several days ago, it would hardly be your fault. Lol

I was actually only charged $55 per new lower door by bestop but I also ordered one new paddle handle for $25 since one of the two I have is messed up. Oh and of course there is also the shipping charge.

[tuffnutz70]

well...down the road let me know when you are ready to replace top....i have a buddy that does the skins and tinted widows for right around $200. hope it works. btw cutting the plastic and sewing in the velcro should work also. if i can help any...let me know.

[Rescue Diver]

well...down the road let me know when you are ready to replace top....i have a buddy that does the skins and tinted widows for right around $200. hope it works. btw cutting the plastic and sewing in the velcro should work also. if i can help any...let me know.

I appreciate it. Does your buddy make the skins? Think he would be for hire to sew in some velcro?

[Rescue Diver]

The verdict is in!

Spunebil was correct. The pins are in the wrong location. Otherwise they match up quite nicely. I looked at what it would take to relocate the pins in the uppers I have for factory steel half doors so they would work with the bestop soft lowers and it is doable with a little cutting and welding, but before starting I decided to give another call to bestop to see how much new uppers would cost ala cart. Short story, I have a new pair of uppers ordered to match my new lowers. I figure I can probably sell the factory uppers I have for about half what I'm paying for the correct ones, and I'll have a better finished product without all the hassle.

The bad news is Bestop makes them to order, so it'll be 4 to 5 weeks for delivery. It's gonna be a cold few weeks! :shock: