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July 12th Club Run @Kansas Rocks

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  • #16
    Alloy shafts have a 10-year warranty. I'd get new ones from wherever you bought 'em.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by rjh View Post
      Alloy shafts have a 10-year warranty. I'd get new ones from wherever you bought 'em.
      When i bought the front and rear ends, the Alloy USA shafts were in there from the prior owner. So I contacted him to see if he could warranty them for me! --- Thanks for the heads up.

      I also went ahead and purchased a new 30 spline Chomo G2 Rear Shaft kit from 4wheel parts - the complete kit for $303.99 with shipping. So hopefully I will now have a spare set, if everything goes as planned! Had to call in the order, as their website only listed the rear kit for Drum brakes... my kit part number is 96-2045-1-30 fyi.

      I have never rebuilt the rear shafts --- How hard is it to do? I am planning to ask Bryan (the quarry) to help me with the install, since he has to do the same thing on his this week. Or MuJeeper, since he has a garage and was willing to help.

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      • #18
        [QUOTE=Rob came out decent enough to actually drive his YJ home....though it does go without saying that he didn't give it a shot at times.[/QUOTE]


        Mike, I know you mean well, but I don't think we need to call out club members that choose to skip a specific trail. He didn't feel comfortable on the trail, so he skipped it. No harm of shame in that. In hindsight I should have done the same thing, it would have saved me my rear end!

        Making club members feel uncomfortable on trail rides is not good for the club membership, now or in the future. The club is open to all levels of jeepers and to criticize a member that showed up and wheeled, is bad form in my opinion.

        Just my .02 (sorry to Rob for this being public)

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        • #19
          Originally posted by JeepN4kc View Post
          At which point you'd be selling the D44s?
          Yeah, I have debated selling them quite a bit over the past year. I have a lot of $$$$ upgrades made to them, with the Rock Krawler HD steering, + front RCVs, so I am going to lose money if I sell them.

          I would be better off selling the whole jeep, and building another one with 1 tons --seeing the amount of additional fabrication it will take. So for know I plan on keeping them.

          Unless you want to buy my TJ outright from me right now?

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          • #20
            Originally posted by jagular7 View Post
            That way you can stay off that throttle a little bit. LOL
            But where is the fun in that MIKE? Anyone can go slow and methodically through the trails, but I WANNA GO FAST!

            Yes, I know my right foot is connected to my wallet, thankfully I am good at my job.... WHO here is looking to refinance or buy a new home? --- CALL me @ 816-778-7021

            lol

            Jim Spinner
            First Mortgage Solutions
            NMLS #410323
            Company NMLS #244476
            816-778-7021
            Last edited by RoKn; 07-15-2014, 02:28 PM.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by RoKn View Post
              my kit part number is 96-2045-1-30 fyi.

              I have never rebuilt the rear shafts --- How hard is it to do?
              That part's a D44 shaft, so I assume that's what you have. D35's have a C-clip inside the differential holding them in, which is a PITA on the trail. Anyway, for a D44, you pull the wheel off, then take the brake caliper off (hang it with a bungie or something), then the rotor/hat. If you look at the picture of the rear axle shaft [e.g. here), you'll notice a hole on the center section - it's not one of the 5 holes for the lug studs, but a different one.... you rotate the shaft around until that hole lines up with the backing plate bolts - there will be 4 of them, 2 per side. Break each one free and back it out, using that hole to get the socket on the bolt. Once all 4 backing plate bolts are off, the shaft should just slide out. If it doesn't, put the wheel back on, put a couple lug nuts on a couple turns, and use the wheel as a hammer (push in, slam outward against the lug nuts) to pull the shaft free of the diff.

              The axle seals on these guys are on the shaft, held in place by a pressed-on bearing. Not an easy trail fix.... so what I've always done is get the new seals & bearings ressed onto the axle shafts ahead of time, slip the bearing race down on them, and then wrap in a blanket to keep things from banging around in the truck box. When it's repair time on the trail, you pull the old one, take the race out of the axle tube with your finger, put the new race in, and slide the new shaft in.

              With the seal/bearing pressed on ahead of time, I can change a rear shaft in just a few minutes. It's much easier than the 35, where you have to open the diff and pop out the c-clips to get the shafts out. A lot messier. :)

              Dunno what part of town you're in, but you're welcome to come up to my place and I'll help you. PM me if you want directions.

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              • #22
                Thanks Rich.

                I have dana 44s from an 03 Rubicon, I will message you later, if I need help.

                Parts will not get here until Monday

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