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Recovery points on my 93 YJ

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  • Recovery points on my 93 YJ

    I have basically, NO rear bumper with a 1.25 inch hitch. I know this is NOT heavy duty enough to be used as a rear recovery option. I am not opposed to taking the hitch off, but I'm looking for options, preferably cheap options, on how/where to install a rear recovery system. rear bumper 2.jpgrear bumper.jpg

  • #2
    Maybe I'm wrong but that rear hitch and/or square tube (the cross member part) seems adequate.
    -Mike B-
    '01 XJ Sport
    '11KK Limited

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    • #3
      They maybe adequate, I can't tell. Is the square tube attached to the frame and where is it attached?
      Last edited by bbtj; 04-24-2014, 08:30 AM.
      Bill T.

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      • #4
        The cheapest and best way I've found is to bolt a piece of 4x4x1/4" angle iron to the rear cross member (remove the little bumperettes) with the horizontal piece on top (like an upside down L). Then weld a 2" wide piece of that same angle to the face of the main bumper, but make it go under the frame rail and bolt into the same place the current hitch connects to (remove it as well). Then you can attach any typical tow hook to the bumper. If you want a hitch, either pick up a receiver hitch adapter that bolts to a bumper, or weld a 2" receiver tube onto the angle iron itself.

        I ran this setup on my old YJ for years, and have another friend that has 20+ yrs with this same setup. Works well, provides high clearance (you'll always smack that hitch you have now on the rocks) and is cheap.

        This all assumes your rear frame rails are solid and not rusted out. YJ's tend to rust very badly at the rear shackle mounts.

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        • #5
          Agree with TommyG. He's played a lot with different Jeep models.

          I've got a YJ as well. Aftermarket does have bolt on bumpers as well. Some have the option for a swing tire carrier to get that off the tailgate and the sheetmetal.
          I've got a similar tow hitch frame but I'm still stock on the tires/rims so I go places and am aware of the potential to get recovered from the rear.
          Best thing to make sure is to check your rear frame from axle all the way back its not rusting out and getting soft. Like TommyG stated, they tend to rust through. Then check the condition of the rear crossmember to the frame rails. Factory welds a seam weld to it. Inspecting my rear crossmember, the outer weld on top of the frame on driver's side is no longer attached to the frame.
          There is a nut spot-weld on the inside of the frame rail underneath. I think its 3/8-16 but not positive. Aftermarket bumpers with pull and hitch points will have the 8 holes up through the rear crossmember but also have the one from the bottom of the frame. It makes it more rigid but in reality, not enough.
          Like TommyG suggested weld in an angle on the frame and make the ear bolt behind the crossmember. For TJs, there are bolt in frame angle supports for this purpose. They have them as well for the YJ, but they require welding. Make your own or buy, its a good thing to do.

          Those bumperettes are pretty much useless for anything beyond shopping cart impact. First thing I removed. Next was I added the hitch frame (1.5" like yours) but mine is a little shorter (higher off the ground) so I have a decent departure angle. I've purchased a Smittybilt rear bumper (XRC IIRC) and will be adding that soon. It has the 2" hitch frame and 2 recovery points. I just put their front bumper on the other day (used off TJ which had an engine fire so coating was gone).
          On my TJ, I took a hole saw and drilled an opening in the rear crossmember into the frame. I did this to support the 'draining' of the rear portion of the frame. Without this, the frame will hold the salt, sand, dirt, mud, etc all the debri that causes rust and rust holes. I'm planning to do the same to the YJ. I'll also have to drill a hole in the bumper mount, but since its open, it'll easily clean out with a hose.

          There are other places on the YJ, particularly on the body, that tend to collect the road salt in the winter and rust out from inside out. Nice cavity behind doors. There is a hole under the floor. Wash the **** out of it with a hose to drain, let dry, then spray rattle can into and as much as you can against the side panels.

          Off topic, I'd recommend to cut down that tall body lift or replace it with new taller poly bushings. If yours is like mine, the old rubber is so deteriorated, I'm surprised its still there. No more than 1.5" body lift is recommended for the Jeeps.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by jagular7; 04-24-2014, 12:54 PM.
          Mike
          Jagular7

          Lnxa, KS

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          • #6
            Here is what the YJ rear crossmember looks like without those bumperettes. Mine is bent as you can see a 'wave' in the upper portion of it. Yes, the weld on the frame is broken. I've pulled the 1.5" hitch frame and selling it. Its replacement is a Smittybilt XRC bumper with 2" hitch built-in. To help drain the rear portion of the frame like my TJ, I drilled a hole and made it about level with the base of the frame. Scraped the inside and used a magnet to get most to all debri out. There was a lot of metal shale in there. Did a bigger hole in the Smittybilt bumper since its open to help drain.
            Attached Files
            Mike
            Jagular7

            Lnxa, KS

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