What size trailer should one get?

[Guest]

I posted in the wanted section, but on this thread I wanted to know if a 16 ft would work for a lj. Or would I be better off waiting for a 18 ft. I'm pretty sure a 14 is out with my extra wheel base, it might fit but I think it would hang off front and back probably pull weird. So will a 16 work or will I hate it and wish I had a 18. Thanks jay .

[JeepN4kc]

A 14 footer is pretty much a waste if ya ask me. No extra room on the deck for any ancillary stuff or to adjust your load fore/aft to set your tongue weight properly.

Many people prefer an 18 foot trailer but a 16 footer will be sufficient. As to whether you would hate it or not that's something only you could decide. If you go for an actual hauler style trailer they are likely going to start at 18 ft whereas a heavy duty utility is commonly 16 ft.

[Guest]

Ask Rich, he tows his LJ on a 16' trailer.

I can tell you that there is a happy medium that you need to strive for. I have towed a stock WB YJ on a 12' utility and it was a nightmare to balance. I've towed my 100" WB TJ on an 18' car hauler and there was LOTS of room in front and back, but because I'm so wide I basically only had one place to park it unless I wanted to set the rear tires on top of the fenders.

The other consideration is that a longer, heavier built trailer can be very heavy. The 18' I borrowed for the last trip weighs around 3,000# empty, but it has 5,200# axles and a 6" channel frame with full wrap around tongue. Throwing my 4500# (or more) rig on there made for a very heavy load for my F150. It towed and handles just fine, but got 7 MPG doing it. I'm likely going to buy a 16' trailer that is in the 2,000# range when I actually buy one of my own.

[Guest]

Going to want a minimum of 16', 18' would be better, IMO. I have a 14' trailer for a CJ7 (93" wheelbase), with a spare tire carrier, it barily fits while balanced appropriately. There is less than a foot in the front and less than 6" from overhanging in the rear. LJ is about a foot longer than a CJ, YJ, TJ.

The advice above is solid!

Wally

[jagular7]

Take some basic wood, poles, sticks, broom handles, shovel handles, and the like, and set out to put down around your LJ. Figure straps forward triangulated, straps rearward triangulated to a virtual frame mount. If you prefer a tool box on the front of the trailer deck, then be concerned of the angle of the straps to the virtual frame. Figure 2.5' for a base for a box.

I have a 18'+ deck. Wood flat, metal dovetail. I have a front rail and I've secured my tool box to that. The side of the box is my trailer spare. Off on the side of the traler frame, I've got d-rings to triangulate the front straps. For the rear d-rings, they are off-centered and welded to the metal deck. I also triangulate my rear straps. I use axle straps around the axles to secure the jeep.

My trailer has a rub rail. If you look closely in the TJ pic, you can see a yellow tape indicating where I put my front tires of the Jeep to get enough tongue weight. I prefer triangulating my straps as bouncing the vehicle on the trailer, it will shift sideways if you strap longitudinal to the axles.

[Guest]

I really like what Mike stated above with laying out sticks or whatever you have to get the right idea of where the Jeep will sit on a trailer and he is so right about crossing the straps as we all know jeeps will bounce around on our trailers.

I originally had a 16' plus 2 foot dove tail for my CJ's, YJ's, TJ's and I could even fit my four Door TJ on it. It all worked good and I believe a lot of it was based on good and adequate strapping points on the trailer. I ended up selling that trailer because I was going to have one custom built to my specs as that trailer size did work out just fine.


I did like the shorter 18' length as it was easy to pull and park. What I didn't like was the 3500lbs axles. While Trailering it I hit a big rut on the shoulder going highway speeds and bent a axle that sucked as I went through a brand new trailer tire from good to blown from Kirksville to Just outside of KC. So on next trailer I was going with twin 5200lbs axles with brakes on both.

I then hated the fact of the deck width because with my amazing driving skills I would drive over and destroy my trailer fenders. I added steel added steel 4" 1/4" thick angle iron with reinforcements so I could just drive over without additional carnage. Worked great.

My old trailer had a wood deck and I became tired of the splintering effect of the wood and then went to steel. Ok, let's just say I am glad I went to steel except when it is oily wet or the sun shines on it. It will burn you bad!!!! I will still go with steel, but after I complete all my desired strapping points I will have it light gray LineX to reduce the heat.

I also like rear pull out Ramps as it's so nice to not have carry them from the side or when your pulled next to another trailer a bit close it's a non issue getting the Ramos out. I will say having a dove tail can be nice as it does make it easy to drive right on without the ramps, but does bottom out on some trails and steep driveways.

Because of my trailer cost sky rocketing on the build I just couldn't justify that cost and found a steel deck 20 foot for a good price.

I do think it's too long but it is nice to have the extra room when I need it. I have added the multiple in deck and railed frame tie down spots. I also cut down a 2" trailer receiver and use it for my removable winch. With that being stated I love having the extra room and as we all know you never know what you might find on the way to the trail that's worth buying and hauling.

I will be changing out my axels to heavier ones and LineX the trailer all gray. Because on a hot summer day that metal is hot, hot, hot.

Good luck.

[Guest]

Thanks for all the info, I think I would prefer a all steel 18 footer with a dove tail. 18 total that is. But I will look for awhile and see what deals pop up. A heavy duty 16 might work. Seems like heavy duty axels are nice, but man that price jump is huge. Thanks again for all the info, Jay

[rjh]

I pull my LJ on a 16' trailer just fine. There's room for a standard size truck box bolted to the front, and I can leave the jeep back far enough to open the box and still have enough tongue weight. Mine had a pair of 3K axles under it. It came with brakes on the front axle; I added brakes to the rear so I could pull it with a 1/2 ton truck easier. I pull almost exclusively with a 3/4 ton K2500 Suburban now though, and it'll stop even without brakes on the trailer axles. :)

I like the wood deck; steel gets hot in the sun, so you won't want to lay on it to strap the Jeep down or work on it off the ground. But it's all just personal preference.

I wouldn't go under 16' and I wouldn't go much past 18' for a single rig. More isn't better. :)

[Guest]

I do agree with you Rich as more isn't better and metal gets real hot. I liked the 16' 2'dove setup and obviously 16' would be perfect for most if not all jeeps. I look forward to LineX in light gray for the trailer as I will assume it will keep it cool. I hope!!!

I still like to have twin 5k axles with brakes and that is on my bucket list just because of bending an axle without truly thinking I did, but then again I do weigh a bit more then the average TJ

[RoKn]

I bought my new trailer this weekend. 18' tophat steel floor with 3.5k axles.

[Guest]

I actually bought a trailer about 2 months ago. Wound up getting a PJ 16+2 equipment hauler with 5200 lb axles, LEDs, and full powder coating. It was a LOT more than I wanted to spend, but I just couldn't find anything worth the money.

According to PJ it weighs less than the similar trailer I borrowed and it is made with 5" channel rather than 6" so it is definitely lighter. Regardless, the F150 still got 7mpg round trip to Disney in early April.

[RoKn]

The difference in used trailer prices + required work on the used trailer, ending up costing about the same as new, IMO.

Where did you buy it at?

About the same trailer as mine ( -the axle upgrade, + steel floor) I also received a full size spare.

I went through Ronnie @ Cooper Trailers in Oak Grove.

[Guest]

I got mine at Frye Farms in Seneca, MO for $2,900 out the door, although I forgot to get a spare. Best I could find around here with 5,200 lb axles used was $2,500 and needed work. Most of the new ones were either more expensive or didn't appear as well built. I figured I would be better served with a new, high-quality trailer than something I would have to jack with servicing bearings, etc. I barely have time to work on the Jeep, let alone a freakin trailer!

[RoKn]

Not a bad deal at all... I paid $2800, but without the 5200 axles and + the steel floor.

Steel floor weighed less, and looked better.

[spunebil]

I have a 16 footer, plenty of room for jeep and an Alum truck bed tool box up forward of jeep ! ..... :)