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Starting up my first Jeep build

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  • #46
    Johnfire, Is that the YJ that was in the impact auto yard? I remember seeing something like that a few years back.

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    • #47
      You need a sye when you lift it. I forgot your not going to lift it.

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      • #48
        She is not a requirement because you lift it. It's a requirement due to the operating angles of the i joints and that the yoke of the yj shaft is a component of the seal to the tcase. If you generate drive lines vibes, joints can be bad, or its the operating angles. Same for the front driveshaft.
        Mike
        Jagular7

        Lnxa, KS

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        • #49
          Whats an avalanch ? Besides the obvios hundred of tons of snow comingdown a mountain side ! .....
          I may be Rad and I may be Bad :pbj: but I am never SAD ! :kilt:
          Yea I'm *Q*C* and ?
          it is a great feeling to have served your country and walk PROUD
          Yes veterans stand tall and their shadow protects all !

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          • #50
            Happy Independence Day!

            I am just trying to sort through everything I find or am told. I know that the yoke is part of the rear t-case seal but have only been able to find info stating that SYE is needed for a lift due to the increased angle it puts on the driveline. Hence causing the u-joints to fail. Just trying to figure out if it is really needed since there is no plans for a lift. Also tough to want to jump and just spend $400 for one as well. I know I have read that the cheaper jeep ones will work, though from reading that means I would have to get a converter or some form of adapter to change my vss to make the engine and transmission run correctly since it would put me back to a jeep vss and speedo signal. Kinda save here but pay there. Didn't see the need to goto a NP241, since from reading that would have added a whole different set of challenges to get past, and at this point everything sits good on the 231c. Plus at the time when doing my research there was almost nothing being talked about people going to a 241. And a Avalanche is a chevy truck which is kinda a crossover suv/truck in my opinion.

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            • #51
              This one came out of the salvage yard down in Windsor, it has a clean title since it came in there for a blown engine. Though they took what was left of the drivetrain steering wheel, and the rear axle before I found it and a friend of my bought it.

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              • #52
                Looking like a great start to your build. In my opinion, if you are unsure of whether the SYE is needed, I would put it all together as it is ans see if there are any vibes. If there are, then you will know you need to bite the bullet and get one. The downside to this is the cost of making a driveshaft for the current application, then finding out you need a different one if a SYE is required.

                :)

                John
                1997 Cherokee, 3", 32" MT's, and too many lights.. :)

                Always Smilin'

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                • #53
                  Thank you, I think that is what I will end up doing. I know a machinist that will make a driveline for me for about $60. He is very good and has made them for many other people for many applications, from normal, to off-road to farm/industrial. I actually have a spare that I could have converted and it has a double cardan on the one end.

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                  • #54
                    I had me drive shafts made at Inland ! Up by worlds of fun, they do good job and ya still have half an arm when they done ! ;) and is the avalanche that Gay looking thing that was built a few years ago by chevy ?
                    I may be Rad and I may be Bad :pbj: but I am never SAD ! :kilt:
                    Yea I'm *Q*C* and ?
                    it is a great feeling to have served your country and walk PROUD
                    Yes veterans stand tall and their shadow protects all !

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                    • #55
                      Slow progress waiting on getting the body here so I can set the drivetrain, and progress with setting everything else. Still looking at different radiator and hose setups. Also exhaust flanges as well to so I can move right into that part of my build when I am there.

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                      • #56




                        The body is setting on the frame so I can make sure that the drivetrain clears. Looks good so far, just have to make the transmission mount crossmember. From there, hopefully have the drive shafts done, weld the axle up, and mount it all in for good. Then the next big thing to tackle is the exhaust then wiring.

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                        • #57
                          Pulled the metal interior dash and the heating unit along with the underdash wires. The plan is to put a hvac unit in from the newest model chevy that will fit in the area I need it too, that also hopefully is all electric for controls. Also am looking at making my own dash as well. Trying to figure out what vehicle to put a gauge cluster from, was also thinking something like a newer model blazer since apparently individual gauge sets are rediculously priced. Just waiting for the heat to break a little so I can spend some more time working on it in the garage.

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                          • #58
                            Picked up a shifter from a 96 GMC Jimmy, I just have to figure out the wiring on it. Also picked up a MAF sensor, hoping my next u-pull trip will go a little better, since I ended up grabbing the wrong cooling fan for my radiator. Also started working on the transmission crossmember today.

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                            • #59
                              Finally was able to get around to making my transmission crossmember. I made it a little heavy, but hopefully it will give some added protection to the vital parts. I plan on putting a 3/16" plate under it later on as well. Just have to finish welding it and give it a coat of paint before installing it for good. Now I can set my axle, and get my drive shafts made up.











                              I made it out of some 2" square tube that I had laying around.

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                              • #60
                                That's definitely a stout skid plate. If you wheel it I think you'll wish you had built it flare to the frame, but the work looks quality nonetheless.

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