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Thread: car hauler for the Jeep

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    Webmaster tfiedler's Avatar
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    car hauler for the Jeep

    I'm looking to get a decent trailer so I can pull the Jeep around. Would like something around 1500-2000. Anyone have any suggestions where I might get a good deal here in the KC area? Anything in particular I should look out for, or look for?

    I'm thinking something in the 16 to 18 foot range with brakes on both axles. Leaning towards steel construction right now but I'm open to aluminum depending upon how much more just because it will be easier to keep under my tow limit.
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    Tips?

    I would pull it before I bought any trailer. The trailer that I use had one of the axle spindles welded in wrong, wouldn't track straight, we cut the spindle loose and put a 1/8" toe-in on it and it now it tracks straight.

    If its used, look at the wiring, see if it has a bunch of splices, see how its run? Bad wiring can give you headaches with your brake lights. In other words summer time they work and summer time they won't, and if they get wet, etc etc etc. We finally replaced it all. Headache solved.

    Also you may want to check the length of the plug wire. If you use a load leveling hitch, it may be too short.

    I am a fan of wood, because its lighter than steel, that translates into better gas mileage. I am also fan of wood because its not as slick, but thats a minor point. As far as maintenance of the deck? Its cheap and easy to replace a wooden deck. We replaced the deck once in 7+ years, the cost was about $200 in 2x8s. I think it took us an hour and a half.

    I have tried all kinds of tie downs and I am sure everyone has their favorite. BUT I really like boomers and steel chain, with an axle strap. Easy on, off. Tried nylon and frame mounts once, ended up busting three 5K rates tie down straps driving back from Tuttle. Never again. I get the 5K rated boomers at HF, have held up great for 2+ years.



    Wally
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    Board of Directors jagular7's Avatar
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    Try CL. Look for car hauler type trailer where the tongue supports the framing to the front axle and the frame is C-channel 6" tall or bigger. Utility type trailers look similar but are angled steel and the tongue stops at the triangulation. They may also have a rail on the trailer and this adds to the rigidity of the utility trailer.
    Brakes on both is unusual to find, but it could happen as I have it that way now.
    2" or 2-5/16" ball requirement.
    215R tires (trailer tires and not car tires) minimum. 215 will be 3500# axles (7k total). 225 would be 5000# axles, 235 would be 6000#, and so on. 5on4.5 is the smaller bearings but 3500# axle. 5on5, 6on5 and so on are the heavier axle ratings.
    I can't remember the type of coupling, but bulldog sounds familiar. Don't forget for properly rated tongue stand. Mine swings out of the way as well. Don't forget about a spare and how you mount it to the trailer.
    Dovetails are better at loading due to the slight rear angle.
    If anything I suggest a 20' dovetail 7-10K rating. Go little longer due to storage box on the deck.
    There are the bearings and seals. Many newer trailers have the hub lubing spindle. I've found that its still better to hand pack bearings and add a new seal.

    I don't mind the wood deck, steel will be slightly lighter (I think that was found after a discussion on another forum for similar trailers and their empty weights). But it will be very hot so any lieing down, expect heat.
    Look for d-rings, clamping points for your straps. I have a rub rail between the stake body mounts.

    For a budget, forget the aluminum. You may be able to be comfortable with a new one outfitted the way you want. Upgrading the axles is an option as well. That's what I did when the 215's blew out.
    Last edited by jagular7; 06-26-2012 at 11:37 PM.
    Mike
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    I have a 20' steel deck and love the length and truly like having a steel deck over wood. I have plenty of recessed (2 in the front and 3 in the rear) strapping points on the deck not including the pocket stake hoders on the front and sides. I will tell you this as if it isn't obvious. A black metal deck is "Hot, burning Hot" in the sun and I have burned my hands when trying to strap a vehicle down. I want to gray LineX the steel deck to reduce the deck temp in the sun and added slip resistance. This was never an issue with wood with the heat.

    Now I Wish I had tandem brakes with twin 5K or 7500K axles. Not the 3500lbs
    I love having rear slide out ramps and not the side pull outs that you have to move around from the side to the back.

    I have a dovetail and now wish it wasn't as this would allow me to load further back and not bottoming out on some driveways or parking lots etc.

    Love having DOT reflective tape all around the trailer.

    In short you can find a huge cash deals on CL on that 16 to 18' trailers.
    Last edited by alanc; 06-27-2012 at 12:15 AM. Reason: Word missing
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    Adding brakes to the second axle will take you ~2 hours and cost just under $300 for the parts. I did it in '09 just before leaving for Moab. I used to run my trailer brakes at a 7 (controller goes 1-10). Now they run at 2.5 to 3. That's a LOT better safety margin if you have to reach down and lock 'em up to get stopped quickly. I wouldn't worry about finding one with brakes on both axles - you can easily do that once you find the trailer you want, all other things being equal.
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    I love my 7k axles under my trailer. They allow me to use it for moving equipment, block, tractors, as well as toting the Jeep around. I hardly use it for those other activities, but it's a nice feature that comes at a competitive price. My trailer is for sale for $2800 as an example. It's a 2011 Starlite 18+2 with tandem 7k axles, 10k jack, bulldog adjustable neck coupler, slide in ramps, drive over fenders, etc.

    Just something to think about.
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    look at the trailer place on 291 and gudgel...ask for woody...he'll build to suit and really good prices too. beats a used one with hidden problems
    "I've only been a Jeep owner a few years, but I'm finding that a Jeep is a lot like a woman. They clean up nice, but they're more fun when they're dirty..."
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    Board of Directors jagular7's Avatar
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    Rusty's is a great price. I'm near his price with only 5200s.
    Just don't know if your Toureg can handle it, though.....lol.
    Mike
    Jagular7

    Lnxa, KS

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    Webmaster tfiedler's Avatar
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    Thanks for the information, gives me lots to consider. I'd love to stick with steel but given my 7,900 pound tow limit, and a 4,500 pound Jeep I think steel might weigh too much. The aluminum one I looked at is twice the money but only 1,400 pounds and the tongue weight is less too. Might have to wait and save up a little longer is all.
    "People who want to share their religious views with you almost never want you to share yours with them." -Dave Barry

  10. #10
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    Did you weigh your Jeep or is that an estimate?

    I drove out to Grain Valley and weighed mine fully loaded on their certified Black Cat scales for about $20.

    With hard top and steel doors, 3/16" full bumpers with tire carrier, winch, 35" tires, 100lbs of tools and recovery gear, full tank of gas it weighed in just under 3700lbs.

    Anyways, something to think about.

    Wally
    Dream a dream and then go chase it!

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